Winter Adventure in the Pyrenees: Pic d’Aygues Cluses and Pic de Madamète
First day: pic d'Aygues Cluses
Departing from Tournaboup-Barèges, the adventure begins on an iced road. With our 12-point crampons securely fastened, the path poses no challenge. The trail winds through a serene pine forest, where the crisp air carries the scent of pine needles and the muffled sound of snow crunching underfoot. By noon, we reach the Cabane d’Aygues Cluses, where we pause for a satisfying lunch and a well-earned siesta before continuing our journey.
At the cabane, we meet Daniel, a 64-year-old mountain enthusiast who has been holed up here for 24 hours due to a nagging back pain. We drop our bivouac gear, exchange a few words with Daniel, and head out for our first summit, Pic d’Aygues Cluses.
The climb is rewarded with breathtaking light and expansive views that make the effort seem trivial. The radio activation is efficient: 16 QSOs on the 20m band, thanks to the simplicity and reliability of my vertical whip antenna. Compared to my EFHW setup, the whip is a joy to deploy, saving precious time and effort in the wintry conditions.
Views from the pic d'Aygues Cluses
Beautiful lights on the way down to the cabane
A night in the cabane
Returning to the cabane, we delve into conversation with Daniel. His story is captivating. Despite living in a modest apartment in an unremarkable neighborhood of a big city, his true home is the mountains. He has devoted his life to conquering summits. With over 1,600 Pyrenean peaks under his belt—including all 212 Pyrenean 3000-meter summits and every single Swiss 4000-meter peak. Yes.
As night falls, the temperature plummets, but our spirits remain high. Dinner is a rustic luxury: duck and potatoes cooked in the cabane’s fireplace. The warmth of the fire contrasts sharply with the cold air outside. Despite our layers, the night offers little rest, but the experience feels authentic and grounding.
Second day: pic de Madamète
Morning dawns crisp and cold, the snow crunching like brittle glass under our boots. Our toes protest against the biting chill. The arrival at the col de Madamète brings reprieve: the sun breaks through, casting golden light on the majestic peaks of the Néouvielle massif. The final slope to Pic de Madamète is a steep 30° incline, demanding focus and energy.
At the summit, I set up the radio for another activation, only to face a technical hiccup: the PTT button refuses to work. Panic threatens to set in, but I recall my radio’s VOX function. Despite being unfamiliar with its settings, I manage to make it work. The activation is choppy but successful, another 16 QSOs logged. Relief and satisfaction wash over me as I pack up.
The descent is a gentle counterpoint to the morning’s effort, the sun now warm and inviting. The mountains bid us a quiet farewell. Another adventure in the Pyrenees ends, leaving behind excellent memories.
The video of the trip:
Aygues Cluses
Madamète